Freshwater Aquarium Filters

Following are different types of filtration systems. They are listed in order of effectiveness.

Power Aquarium Filters

A Power Filter is a chamber filter that sits on the out side of the tank hanging to the inside, the water falls like a water fall. The water is sucked up by a filter tub then pushed through a filter cartage with carbon and floss, then pushed farther out till it falls out of the top of the filter and into your tank.

Recommended: Aquaclear

Cannister Aquarium Filters

Cannister Filters allow you to achieve maximum efficiency in multi-stage (biological, chemical and mechanical) filtration using a variety of filter media. The design of the filter divides the media into easily accessible "baskets" which allow you to adjust their types and proportion as needed to achieve the desired results. Includes all necessary components as well as "starter" portions of activated carbon media, BioMax filter media, designed to host large colonies of beneficial bacteria, and Fluval Foam Blocks to mechanically filter particulate waste.

Recommended: Fluval

Bio Wheel Aquarium Filters

Compact filters feature the rotating Bio-Wheel wet/dry biological filter, proven to remove ammonia and nitrite faster. Self-starting pump restarts automatically after shut off. Designed to be leak proof and easy to maintain. Flow rates are certified accurate.

Under Gravel Aquarium Filters

An undergravel filter is simply a slotted piece of plastic (undergravel plate) that sits on the bottom of the aquarium and lets water flow between the plate and the bottom of the tank. There is a tube that is attached to this bottom piece, known as the lift tube. Gravel is placed on top of the filter, and the filter, lift tube and gravel work together to provide filtration. Water is pulled down to the bottom of the tank, through the gravel. And then the undergravel plate, then flows back up to the top through the lift tube. The water is again pulled down through the gravel. This allows beneficial bacteria to thrive on the oxygen laden water flowing through the gravel.

Wet-Dry Aquarium Filters

A complete under-the-tank wet/dry system offers mechanical, chemical and biological filtration with 100% water-to-media contact for superior water quality. Designed for flow rates of 300-500 gph,

UV Sterilizer

The helix design forces water to make a double-spiral pass along the entire length of the PowerCompact UV lamp. This Helix UV technology provides unprecedented 36" and 60" of Ultra-Violet exposure. That's more than twice what conventional UV sterilizers supply. The result of this exposure is a dose of ultraviolet light that kills over 98% of harmful microorganisms, eliminating unsightly algae and disease in your tank.

Aquarium Filter Cartridges

How often should you change filter cartridges? As a good rule, when a sponge doesn't take back it's form after you squish it within a few seconds (even in water) then it's defiantly time to replace.  

Disposable filter media is not used by many experienced fishkeepers. All your filter materials can be good for multiple years if not decades to forever. They won't be cheap initially, but they and their media last and last and last. Disposable media is an option many people exercise for convenience, but it is certainly not a requirement or the only choice out there  

Carbon – do I need it?

What circumstances would you need carbon in your filter, besides taking out medications?

Most experienced fishkeepers do not use carbon on a regular basis.  It is used for removing medication or tannins (discoloration).  Water changes with clean water are more effective at controlling the content of your water. Carbon is only active for a brief time, requiring frequent replacement--costly! It may even cause more problems than it's worth.  (See Carbon Products and Phosphates article).  Your tank will run fine without carbon, especially if you maintenance is appropriate for your stocking.

Instead try some polyester/cotton batting to replace the carbon.  It is cheaper and does a nice job. 

It's important to note that carbon provides a different kind of filtering than sponges or poly. Mechanical filtration is the trapping of solid waste particles--a sponge of poly can do this easily. Biological filtration are the colonies of bacteria that break down ammonia/nitrites--sponges and poly, as well as noodles, ceramic rings, bio-balls, and bio-wheels are all good for this. Chemical filtration refers to the adsorption of chemical components into the surface of carbon.

Go ahead.  Keep some around, in case meds need to be removed or if there was accidental exposure to something you fear may have some toxicity (e.g., wife gets too close to the tanks with the Spray-n-Wash!).  

Alternatives to fill up the media

Aquarium Filter Floss
Filter floss is simply polyester batting. The stuff you make pillows out of. They sell it in the fish store in small bags or else you can pick it up at places like Walmart in the fabric section for cheaper. A little bit will do ya. Stuff it in the area where the chamber is and voila! Of course a brand new Aqua Clear, for example, will come with a sponge, but you can add a little extra material if you want.

 

You may change the filter floss every time you do a water change or you can just rinse the stuff out in the fish tank water Rinse that foam in the aquarium water you remove in order to keep the bacteria.

If you rinse the foam in tap water, the chlorine will kill the nitrifying (good) bacteria. the old tank water holds a very small amount of the bacteria, but is perfect for cleaning the filter media.